The subtleties of shoreline towns often are enshrouded by the hustle of summer. During the hottest, busiest months, the Mystic River's glimmer
can be lost in shore-to-shore boat traffic. The rush of waves on sand at Misquamicut Beach can be muffled by blaring boom boxes. And when
traffic is thick on narrow village streets, there is little time to notice turrets and gingerbread trim on Victorian houses. When the heat is
off, Connecticut's tourist hot spot in Mystic and the Rhode Island beach community of Westerly, do not shut down, however. The two villages
located just 10 miles apart, instead slow down and reveal a beauty often lost in summer's noise and crowds. This makes winter a perfect time for
those seeking solace with a sea view to visit the region. The ocean, harbors and rivers still provide soothing scenery and make wonderful
backdrops for invigorating walks, albeit with mittens and mufflers rather than shorts and bathing suits. The diminished crowds also mean more
personable and personalized service at restaurants and attractions and more buying power at lodging. "It's just a quiet, relaxing time," said
Richard Prisby, manager at the 49-room Whaler's Inn in downtown Mystic. "Everything is still open, but the crowds are not here." Winter room
rates at the inn range from $85 a night to $165 for a luxury room with a river view. In the summer, rates range from $139 to $249 a night. "This
is a great place to get snowed in," said Kristen Shaw, a receptionist at the inn, referring to the shops, restaurants, art galleries and the
Mystic Seaport Museum all located within walking distance. The historic downtowns in both Mystic and Westerly are great for strolling. The Mystic
River bisects its namesake village with the banks linked by a drawbridge that can be a headache for drivers, but awe-inspiring for pedestrians. A
variety of shops featuring nautical gifts, toys, clothing, books, paintings and even canine cookies, line the compact downtown. Several fine
restaurants also are located here. Sitting by a roaring fire for dinner or drinks can be especially inviting when temperatures drop. Should the
wind bite or snow squall, hunker into the 1756 Captain Daniel Packer Inne for a romantic dinner or have a pint in front of the stone fireplace at
the Harp and Hound, a traditional Irish pub. Just a few blocks north of Mystic's main commercial district, Mystic Seaport, a 19th century seaport
village, also offers opportunities for a relaxing stroll with some educational benefits. During the winter, visitors see the village by guided
tours that leave every half hour. "It really is a chance to get more out of the village than in the summer," Michael O'Farrell, the Seaport's
publicist, said about a winter visit. "The tours groups are relatively small and you can interact with your tour guide for the full time." The
Seaport also features musical entertainment daily and a costumed role player on weekends throughout the winter. The Seaman's Inne, a quaint
restaurant located on the seaport grounds, features live entertainment, including sea chantey singing in the pub every Thursday beginning at 6
p.m. through March 25. A wintertime getaway to the coast also should include some time in Westerly, R.I., just a 15-minute drive east of Mystic
on Route 1. In the summer, hordes of visitors swarm Westerly's seven miles of beaches at Misquamicut and Watch Hill. Winter visitors can
have the sand, waves and screeching gulls almost to themselves and several hotels and bed and breakfast inns on or near the beaches stay open all
year. Among the oceanfront options for a winter visit is the Sandy Shore Motel. Little more than a mile from the ocean, Langworthy Farm Bed and
Breakfast is an 1875 Victorian farmhouse that once was home to Samuel Ward, one of Rhode Island's earliest governors. The Seaview King room rents
for $150 a night during the summer, but can be had for $100 on a weeknight and $125 on the weekend during the cold months. Another bed and
breakfast is Grandview, a turn-of-the-20th-century house with ocean views and a cozy fireplace. Rooms here rent from $90 to $115 a night during
the prime season, but in the winter range from $85 to $95 a night. "Staying at a room on the beach is such a relaxing experience, no matter what
the time of year," said Lisa Konicki, executive director of the Westerly-Pawcatuck Chamber of Commerce. "It's a great experience to fall asleep
to the sounds of waves crashing." After a good night's sleep, take a 10-minute drive from the beaches to historic downtown Westerly, chosen in
2002 by the National Trust for Historic Preservation as one of the country's 12 most distinctive destinations. The downtown is full of
architectural treasures, including the Romanesque public library with its eye-catching gold- colored bricks and red-tiled roof. The 18-acre
Wilcox Park that is the downtown centerpiece, was developed in 1898 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The Victorian strolling
park is criss-crossed by sidewalks and accented by a fountain, sculptures and a duck pond. If you are lucky enough to visit when there is snow,
grab a sled and join the local children zooming down the park's hillsides, or at least spend a few minutes watching the slippery fun. Downtown
also includes a number of unusual gift and antique shops, several fine restaurants, art galleries, a live theater, a concert hall and an art
cinema and caf. The Granite Theatre is a former church that now stages performances throughout the year. The Chorus of Westerly Performance Hall,
also a former church, is home to the 200-member chorus founded in 1959. The chorus' annual sellout performance of a "Celebration of Twelfth
Night" will be staged this year Jan. 9 through Jan. 11. One of the newest additions to the downtown cultural scene, is Revival House cinema and
caf at 42-46 High St. Revival House, which opened in November, shows classic and art films such as "Key Largo," "The Shining," and "Roger and
Me," six nights a week. Wine, beer, coffee, tea and sandwiches are served before, during and after the films. Next door to Revival House is Perks
and Corks, a wine and coffee bar featuring cushy over-stuffed furniture, decadent desserts and a long list of wines, lattes, teas and espressos.
Daniel Kamil, who owns Revival House with his wife, Emily Steffian, said winter is a good time for visitors to enjoy the downtown area because
the crowds are gone, but the character remains. "I don't know of many small towns with a great park, library, restaurants and gift shops," he
said. "It is not a sterile environment."
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